I wanted to call this post Wiksten Perfected, however I definitely haven’t finished playing with the fit on this one. I bought the Wiksten Tank pattern years ago and made about five of them in quick succession due to the ‘instant gratification’ nature of this pattern. I can turn one of these babies out in a couple of hours (I’m sure a more efficient sewer could do it in a lot less but I’m queen of pfaffing around and getting bored/distracted mid-task). It’s odd then that I’ve never been all that convinced about the fit of this pattern or how flattering it is on my figure.
The version above (if you can ignore the fact that it needs ironing) is made out of a silk cotton blend that has a nice drape to it and clings a bit more to my body then any of the cotton versions I’ve made. You can see in the pictures above though that it is tight over my chest and rides up a little in the front. You also might be able to see that my shoulders naturally tilt slightly forward. This is an issue that I thought was just bad posture, but I now think is just the way I’m shaped as I really can’t get them to sit backwards without curving my back. I’ve no idea why this is and can’t find anything on Google so would love to know if anyone has an explanation. I’ve been learning how to fit this issue at college and it has made a really big difference to my finished objects.
I’ll go into fitting forward rotated shoulders in another post sometime, but for the moment I just rotated the shoulder seam forward 1.5 cm and hollowed out the front armhole a little to give my prominent shoulders a little more room. I also did a FBA using the no dart method that Maria Denmark posted a while back. Next, I cut out my adjusted pattern in some Liberty Tana Lawn from Cleggs and sewed up the side and shoulder seams to admire my new roomier Wiksten Tank.
Well I was obviously feeling too confident because while this top is now way more comfy this armhole is all wrong. I really think that once you are over a certain cup size (and I’m a DD) you really need some darts (or some sort of dart substitute like gathers or design lines). I mean look how much better the top sits once I pinch out a side dart:
I ultimately fixed the problem in this garment by using a gathering stitch in the bottom front quadrant of the armhole and that worked plenty fine to make the tank wearable. I’m still not sure I suit wearing this top as it is over jeans but I’m pretty happy with it tucked in to a skirt. What do you think? Any ideas?